On the Road from Bellingham, WA 12/28/09

Friend (Joe) - Hey Peace Rider man, it's been awhile since I've heard from you? What's happening?

PR - Yeah, I know. Sorry about that, too many distractions. I crossed the border Christmas eve and made it to the outskirts of Bellingham as the sun was setting. I didn't make Tony and Marie's place in Fairhaven on the south side until after dark.

The last time I talked to Marie, Tony hadn't made it back from an Antarctic cruise. I was pleasantly surprised to find him at home when I knocked on the door. He had just arrived a few hours before me as it turned out. He was very glad to be home but seriously jet lagged after several long flights starting in Punta Arenas, Chile. He only had a few days at home before another cruise began. But at least he got to spend some time with Marie and their two young boys. He just left this morning.

F - Which way did you go from Hope?

PR - Since I was already in Hope and close to Trans Canada Highway One I headed in that direction. I switched back to touring tires before I left. It was mostly downhill or flat so I was in Chilliwack by early afternoon. But yikes it was noisy with lots of fast moving trucks and cars. I was glad to turn off and head into downtown Chilliwack. I picked up a new rain jacket I'd ordered and had sent ahead to the local Post Office.

F - Where to after that?

PR - Tom Webb, my Warm Showers host in Kamloops, had given me a map with a rural route to the border heading due south from Chilliwack then west. I past Sardis going south and was supposed to hang a hard right at Keith Wilson Rd. but kept going to Yarrow Central Rd. By this time it was well into the afternoon. The thought came to me that it might be easier finding a camp site on Yarrow Central Rd. which appeared to be closer to the Veddar River than the other way. From here it gets pretty interesting.

F - How so?

PR - Well, I had just passed the turnoff to Cultus Lake when a van pulls over on the opposite side of the road and a man gets out. I'm getting used to this happening by now. We have a conversation. He's a long distance cyclist and was curious about my journey. He asks me if I am familiar with Warm Showers. "Of course," I respond. "I tried calling the one host family in Chilliwack that was listed but only got an answering machine." "Yes," he responds, John and Caroline are friends of ours. They are out of town on a bicycle trip. My wife and I are also Warm Showers hosts. I need to check with her to see if it's okay for you to stay with us but I'm sure it will be."

Now what are the chances that in the whole area it would be the second and only other Warm Showers host to stop with a place for me to stay the night?

F - You're being taken care of?

PR - Yes, and I'm very grateful for it. Gary gave me directions to his place and said he'd catch up with me later. He would be back at 5:00 PM after a trip to town he said. I'd have to hang out for a couple of hours.

F - So what did you do in the meantime?

PR - I had to back track a short way to the Cultus Lake turnoff then head up and over the hill to their place near the Lake. I still had plenty of time to kill so cruised by their house. I wanted to be able to find it after dark. It wasn't hard to pick out, a bicycle hung from the second story balcony as a Christmas ornament.

I headed to the lake next and rode along a gravel trail near the shore. Flocks of geese were calling lake bound as darkness fell.

This is the time of year the locals have the place to themselves, the tourist season over. I could imagine the place packed during the summer. But all was quiet now. A few people were out trail walking beneath a canopy of tall trees along the shore.

F - Sounds idyllic?

PR - You know it was very serene in the waning light reflected off a mirror glass surface. This lake is in a park so there is not wall-to-wall houses around the shoreline.

Memorial benches were placed at regular intervals along the shore. The first one I stopped at said "Forget Me Not." This brought back special memories, of a poem I'd written with that title. Hmm, many friends and family in addition to these souls unknown to me have passed. I remembered.

F - So eventually you found your way back to Gary's place I presume?

PR - Yes, he returned when he said he would and Sheryl his wife a short while later. We had a lovely evening together. Gary is a retired school administrator and Sheryl a teacher at a local college. Both are very active outdoors. Gary is recovering from a bicycle/car encounter. He is a randoneering cyclist, something I knew nothing about. These hard core and hardy cyclists cover long distances in a relatively short time. He was hoping to be well enough to qualify for one of these events in Paris held every four years.

Gary filled in the blanks for me with computer printed maps of Bellingham and a route to my friend's house. I left the next morning.

F - From Cultus Lake how far did you go?

PR - I made it all the way to Bellingham. I was a little surprised at that but the rural roads to the border and beyond were flat and fast riding. It helped that I had some tail wind. The roads are laid out in grid fashion, north to south, east to west

Ducks, mostly mallards leapt into the air from roadside water courses as I passed. Swans with their grayer cygnets rested in many of the fields I passed. I really enjoyed the ride, the sights and yes, even the smells.

At the intersection of Sumas Way and Vye Road I stopped and called Ron Benczi. He is a reporter for Global TV in Vancouver. I had been in touch with him since Hope trying to arrange a TV interview. When I called him again from the Chevron Station on the corner he said a cameraman was in the area looking for me, stand on the corner and make yourself more visible he advised.

F - And you connected?

PR - Yes we did, Kevin MacDonald the cameraman, found me shortly after I called Ron and he filmed an interview with me then some shots of me riding along Vye Rd. and up to the border.

You know the Christmas spirit was also alive and well at that busy intersection.

F - What do you mean?

PR - While I was waiting for the cameraman to arrive, Bruce Kloosterman gets out of his Paragon Feed truck parked near a pay phone booth where I had parked, walks over to me and hands me $10.00 Christmas gift. Before he can escape I ask his name. In the process I tell him many people are praying for me. He gives me a big smile and says prayer is the most powerful force in the Universe. I couldn't disagree. He said he was supposed to be retired as he closed the door and drove off. Nothing like leaving Canada on an incredible high mixed with a tinge of sadness!

F - What are your plans now?

PR - My bicycle is in a local shop being worked on. It should be ready soon. I am also waiting for several packages to arrive in the mail. It could be a couple of days yet before I head south from here. It's been a wonderful time though to kick back for awhile and get rested up for next phase of the journey.

See you down the road a piece.

F - Look forward to it.

On the Road from Hope, BC 12/21/09

Friend (Joe) Hey, Peace Rider glad to see you made it down Highway l in one piece.

PR Yeah, me too. No shoulders, blind curves, tunnels and narrow bridges made this "no walk in the park." But you know I also had help.

F - How so?

PR Just after Cache Creek on a narrow stretch I caught a tire on the transition between the shoulder edge and dirt and fell off the bike. A Mountie saw my tracks in the snow where I fell. He pulled off the side of the road ahead of me further on. He was concerned for my safety on this stretch and cautioned me to be extra careful. From where I was to Spences Bridge and Lytton was the worst he said. He offered to give me a ride but I thanked him and declined. My friend Don Laird has also cautioned me to be extra careful on this Highway The Mountie's warming came just before I headed into one of the worst stretches for blind curves and narrow shoulders.

At blind corners I would stop, look back to make sure there was no on coming traffic then pedal like crazy to round the bend and so on, same way at bridges and other road restrictions.

F - How did you manage through the tunnels?

PR - Several of the tunnels had a yellow caution lights you could set flashing at the tunnel entrance to warm motorists that a cyclist was in the tunnel. At others there was a walkway along one side of the tunnel you could ride on out of traffic. But man, the noise from cars and especially trucks in the tunnels was deafening and nerve racking. You don't think about it as a motorist.

F - And you had blue sky and sunny weather all the way?

PR - Boy I wish. From Kamloops past Spences Bridge to Jackass Summit was fine. It was clear and sunny from Cache Creek following the Thompson River into the canyon. At Jackass Summit, my fourth night out, I camped next the to road on a narrow patch of snow free ground. A few feet the other side of my tent was a nearly vertical drop to the river below The next morning, however, a couple of inches of fresh snow was on the ground. Descending from there, snow turned to rain and it was raining when I set up camp just past Hells Gate. The snow was wet, the ground soggy. I didn't even bother to set up the stove. The trees were wet and I'd have been lucky to get a fire going. My second cold camp but I did have hot dinner.

The next morning more of the same, rain, cold and just about everything I owned wet. I did float high and dry on my air mattress and my sleeping bag remained dry. I was warm until I emerged from my cocoon and got pedalling and the blood circulating.

Rain tapered off later in the day when I hit Hope and The Swiss Chalet Motel to dry out in.

F - You meet any interesting characters along the way?

PR - When I got to Cache Creek late in the day I went in the local grocery to buy a few things like noodles, cheese and bread. I had everything at the register ready to check out but for some reason was distracted and looking elsewhere. Tony in that instant stepped forward and paid for my groceries with a Merry Christmas. What a nice gift and reminder the Christmas spirit is alive and well.

My next grocery stop was in Lytton. I first stopped at a food store on the main highway, but bad vibes. Guard dog on duty, no washrooms and no business. I decided to hit the store in the main part of town even though it meant going downhill from the main highway. Outside the store I asked a driver if he had a pliers I could borrow to put my front fender back on. He did. I was putting it on when I strike up a conversation with Mark Jaccard and Michelle Nickerson. Mark is a Professor at Simon Fraser Univ. in the School of Resource and Environmental Management. Isn't it "interesting" that he deals with policy issues regarding climate change. They stopped in Lytton because that is where the Fraser R. begins. Michelle it turns out plans to make like a salmon and swim the Fraser next summer to highlight the plight of salmon. For more on that see www.ripplerelay.com.

F - What do you mean by "interesting?"

PR - Well, I'm not sure exactly but would like to follow up with him to educate myself further on what governments should be doing policy wise to reduce fossil fuel emissions. He said that BC has put in place a carbon tax, among the first to do so.

F - So you're heading down the road today.

PR - Yes, right after I'm done with this. So we'll see you down the road again.

F - Anything else to report before you go?

PR - I went to the local laundromat in downtown Hope to dry my wet things. When I got there the attendant asked what I was going to do. Dry my clothes I responded. He said you have to wash your clothes before you can dry them, that is our policy. Huh? He did tell me of another place and I went there. So much for business.

Peace Rider on the CFJC Evening News

On the Road Barriere to Kamloops, BC 12/9-13/09

Friend (Joe) - what's the name of that pooch curled up by you.

PR - Oh, he's Buddy, a lovable golden retriever belonging to my Warm Shower hosts Tom and Lorna Webb. They went out this morning. I have the run of the house and use of their computer.

F - So you're in from the cold for awhile?

PR - Thankfully, yes. And it has been COLD, below zero F here.

You know a recurring theme of this journey is meeting people I need to meet. In turn they've helped me build on what I started, especially in areas I'm weakest in. It's a joyful process. I've made many new friends. My hosts are more of such folks.

F - So how are you feeling at this point in the journey, going to "extremes?"

PR - I wouldn't have jumped on a bicycle for a "cool" winter bike ride if I didn't feel the need was urgent. We're fouling our own nest. It's our children that will suffer the worst consequences of climate change if we get it wrong.

It's our moral obligation to do it for them. It's up to us to get off the dime and transition to a clean energy future. They'll need the oil that remains for petrochemicals. There's only so much of the stuff left. Why take the risk of dragging this out until 2030 or 2050.

Future generations may look back on this era with a single question, "they really burned it." Why?

F - It's like being handed a stick of dynamite with a slow burning fuse, eh?

PR Something like that, you don't know when it will explode in your face. A sane person would defuse it, whatever it took, in as short a time as possible, rather than dither, dally and delay.

F - End our addiction to fossil fuels in an orderly fashion. Make sure the needs of everyone are met in a well planned transition to a clean energy future. Is that your idea?

PR - That's right! The USA put a man on the moon in a decade. Set a goal of having all atmospheric poisons planet wide in decline by the end of the next decade. Don't mess around with this. We're literally playing with dynamite.

F - Canada and the USA should be leading the way to a clean, energy independent future instead of being Neanderthals.

PR - At a Peace Conference I attended Dr. Vincent Hardy said, "Obama can't save you, you have to save Obama." And he's right on. It's going to take a real shove and "tough love" from citizens at the grass roots level to make it happen. Look at what Gandhi and Martin Luther King had to do in their struggles for social justice.

F - And look what happened to them?

PR - Yeah, I know but maybe, just maybe, it will be different this time.

But here's the key, we'll continue to make the same mistakes of the past as long as we see ourselves as separate from one another at a deeper level, separate from creation and the consequences of our behavior, and separate from that which is Higher than self. What we give to the other we give to ourselves individually or collectively because of these underlying relationships. A lot more people understand this now.

We are the dreamer awaking from a nightmare. It's time to follow the red flashing detour sign. It's time to end it, unite and come together.

F - Preach on bro, "I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together."

PR - Yeah, it's doable. There's great strength in unity. But how do you wake people up?

F - You're riding and speaking to young people aren't you, gaining more attention because you're riding in winter.

PR - Yes, and I've noticed a shortage of other cyclists on the road. But seriously, it's a great opportunity and privilege I've been given to speak. It's beyond my comfort zone at times, but I'm committed to the journey, whatever it takes.

F- How did your presentation go at the Barriere Secondary School?

PR - Better this time, my message and voice are stronger. There were good questions afterward too. The aftermath was especially rewarding.

F - Glad to hear it but I forgot to ask where you spent the night, camped out somewhere?

PR - No, Jonathan Brady the Principal and Sheri McGregor the custodian, pulled out all the stops to find a place for me. A lot of teachers commute from Kamloops so it wasn't like - easy.

I met Jonathan and Sheri when I walked into the school and told them who I was. I'd called ahead. She found a place 5 km north of town, but I'd have to bike there. Oops, long way, me tired. More calling.

She called the Elementary school and talked to the Secretary. At that moment she "just happened" to overhear Gay Conan, leaving the building, "call her back she said." Gay Conan and Robert Bach were the owners of the place north of town.

I could leave my bike at the school. I changed back to touring tires in the wood shop while I waited for Gay to come.

The shoulders of the road here were mostly clear, a good time to change over inside a warm building it seemed. I'd been on studded tires since Jasper, slower going, more drag. But I really needed them with snow and ice on the shoulders for most of the way to Barriere.

And that's how I ended up spending a delightful evening with Gay and Robert at their Bar F, Hacienda Costalota. You've got to have a sense of humor as a farmer. Small farmers like them are just getting by.

They enjoy the life style with a menagerie of horses, a llama, sheep, chickens, cows, donkeys, pigs, dogs, cats and an occasional coyote that nips in for an easy meal.

A sheep guard dog they had on permanent assignment near the barn stopped most of the "bandits" I was told.

I joined Gay and Robert doing morning chores, feeding, watering and cleaning up after their extended family.

In the distance I saw a cat crossing the yard. Three dogs lit out after it. Robert said, "they don't chase the two resident cats but they'll chase strays off." "Once," he said, "a coyote came in the yard and grabbed a rooster in front of me but he couldn't get it through the fence and dropped it." "I got it back at least," he said.

I was a little slow in getting to Gay's car to head for the school after chores. By the time we arrived classes had resumed. We were supposed to arrive beforehand. But it worked out. More students came later.

Touring tires came off again, whew, and studded tires went back on while I waited. It was snowing again in the AM. At least I had a warm place in the school to do it and air from the wood shop.

Later I wheeled my loaded bike into the gym where 50-60 or so high school students sat on bleachers with their teachers and Principal.

I would never have imagined myself making presentations before high school students but there I was.

F - So how did it go?

PR - In a sea of faces it's hard to tell but very well from later responses. We don't speak from the heart often enough. What happened later was really special.

F - Let's hear it.

PR - I got on the road a little past l PM. The next town down the road was McLure about 6 miles south. I figured I could make 10 miles in the remaining daylight.

I pulled even with McLure with less than half an hour before camp time, about 3:15 PM. Opposite the Post Office, five people walked out from their driveway to meet me. Noel introduced himself, then Josie his wife, and their three daughters Karina, Kimberly and Kathrine.

They handed me a paper bag filled with goodies, food for the road. They are Filipino, slight in stature but tall where it counts most.

It turns out Karina and Kimbery heard me speak at school earlier in the day. They were inspired. Wow, I say that a lot! After speaking the students went off to their next class. I hadn't seen them. They were home from school by the time I reached their modest mobile home near the Canadian Railroad tracks.

They waited, knowing I was coming. Karina said, "remember me, I saw you at the Elementary School?" I stopped there briefly asking for directions to the Secondary School (high school). I went the long way through Barriere to find it.

Noel handed me his card which said they were The Pelayo Family, Musicians and Singers. Josie told me about a place further on where I could camp in the pines. Then Noel said, "we have a bungalow beside our house, why don't you stay here." I thought a moment and said, "why not." I accepted.

I'm being taken care of. I knew it. You cannot give selflessly without receiving, it's the way Love works.

They were in a hurry to leave for Kamloops. Kimberly had a violin lesson. Afterward they were going to church. I was about to go with them, but they were hurrying to leave and I said, "you go on without me." I was in my traveling clothes. I wanted to change. I'll have a relaxing evening I thought. In the bungalow, I found a We Are The World cassette. I'm a low tech guy in a high tech world you know. Their Cadillac of boom boxes had more buttons than some aircraft console panels. Eventually I got it going. It was really nice to hear music again. I miss that on the road. Still, there was a tinge of regret at not going just as they found me.

I was heating water for a hot drink when the phone began ringing in the adjacent room. I picked it up but nothing. I was not pressing the key down hard enough I discovered later. The phone kept ringing then stopped.

I got changed was just about to fix dinner when I heard knocking. I opened the door. Jerry introduced himself. "We have come to pick you up." " What?" I responded, "Josie called me and Alice, she tried to call you. We're taking you to their church with us," he said, "can you be ready in five minutes?"

They didn't tell me they were smokers until I was in the car. "It won't kill me," I responded after their warning.

They were good friends and benefactors of the family I learned. Jerry had helped the family build their small food concession wagon where they sold Filipino food.

Noel was a farm hand. He had lost his job, and for the first time getting an unemployment check. They decided to try something else, maybe a restaurant later. They didn't start until Sept. It was not set up for winter. They had to stop, when it started freezing. It was parked beside their home for the winter.

We arrived at the Kamloops Alliance Church where I caught up with the family. Karina and Kimberley were playing Christmas music, Karina on piano and Kimberly the violin. It was a Christmas dinner with a drama, The Inn Keepers Dilemma afterward. They bought a $20.00 ticket and gave it to me so I could go with them. I was really moved knowing their circumstances.

It was a delightful evening, good food, meeting new people, enjoying a well rehearsed and acted drama.

Karina 16, the oldest, told me she was trying to raise $4000 to go to Ecuador on a Me and We exchange program. She was earning money towards that by playing at the church she said but well shy of the money needed to make a deposit deadline by Christmas day. Wendy, who was seated next to me at the dinner table, had helped her apply.

In the basement shower room of Tom and Lorna's home where I'm at, there is a sign, "kindness is power." What greater love than this to welcome me, a stranger, into their homes and be treated as part of the family.

It is time to end the madness. We're all One.

F - So what are your plans in Kamloops?

PR - I will try and speak at North Kamloops High school on Monday. The local TV station and newspaper were interested in an interview so we'll see. I arrived late Friday so the latter two didn't work out.

Tom and Lorna have taken such good care of me.
Tom ran me around town yesterday looking for replacement rain gear and a camera. The former was old when I started. I need the latter now.

F - I heard there's one long grind heading south from Kamloops, eh?

PR - Yeah, it will be the longest so far but not as steep as some on the Alaska Highway. Part of the package!

F - You know you don't have much on your bike to tell folks what you're up to when vehicles pass.

PR - You're right! Tom had a great idea. He suggested I put easily removable signs with Ride For The Planet on both sides of the B.O.B. I'll put that on the back of my wind jacket as well.

F - So then you're all set for the next leg?

PR - Well, not quite, the sign shop is backed up with Christmas orders so that's on hold for the moment. I was able to get it embroidered on my jacket. That will help until I can get signs made.

F - You haven't told me much about Tom and Lorna?

PR - Sorry, Tom is a master mechanic and retired Safeway store exec., Lorna is a real estate agent and real sweetheart. She's still working.

While I was working on this Tom lubed and made adjustments on my bike. He's amazing!

He has a neat project underway I've not seen, building a solar, electric car using a fifties vintage Chevy chassis. It's not at the house where I'm staying. As he said, "there's not a bolt on it I've not removed in the rebuilding process."

I am deeply grateful our paths crossed. My days ahead will be better and stronger for it. Kindness is their power.

Wild blessings, PEACE, LOVE and JOY to all of you as we close in on Christmas and I on Bellingham, WA about that time.

Peace Rider Don

Valemount Live: Interview with Peace Rider

On the Road from Clearwater, BC Yellowhead Highway 5, 12/8/09

Friend (Joe): Hey, where you at now Peace Rider?

Peace Rider: Well, rolled into Clearwater after dark on Friday evening. Keith McNeill put me up at the Wells Gray Inn. West of here is Wells Gray Park. Pretty cool, eh?

F: How cool? And who's Keith?

PR: COLD, getting down to 20 below C at night, about zero F. Winter is here, but I'm under a hard rood until I hit the road for Kamloops later today.

Keith is the editor for the local paper, The Times. He interviewed me yesterday about Ride for the Planet. I had a wonderful opportunity to speak about the inspiration, in spirit motivation, that set me off on this journey.

F: Okay, inspiration and perspiration go together.

PR: Something like that, how did you know?

F: Been there, done that.

PR: How about a Christmas story from on the road?

F: Go!

PR You will recall me saying the Way of Peace is the Way of Love, right?

F: Yes, of course, but refresh my memory a bit..

PR Okay! Love is too often misunderstood. We have ignored for too long this simple but profound Way of Peace message: overcome evil with good, hatred with love and falsehood with truth. It was Jesus' message after all, passed down through the ages by other gifted teachers..

The Love of which He spoke is that which seeks the highest good of the other whether human or of other living things with no thought for itself. Love works. Nothing else will because we are all One. Separation is an illusion. This kind of Love was and is the inspiration, in spirit, motivation for this ride.

We are like waves on the ocean awaking to the realization that we are connected to an awesome vastness we cannot fully understand from a view point that is limited by our minds alone.

He understood all things are connected at a level beyond the physical. It is why he said "turn the other cheek," He knew what is given returns to the self because of our connectedness, violence for violence, love for Love's sake.

"Forgive them, they know not what they do." They did not understand and we do not understand completely yet, The Way to Peace, is through The Way of Love. This He demonstrated through an act of selfless sacrifice. It has rung loudly and repeatedly through the ages, a clarion call, pointing the way to peace on Earth and peace with the earth.

F: You had a Christmas story from the road?

PR: I checked into the Sandman Motel a few days ago in Blue River and posted a blog from the local library as you will recall?

F: Yes, I do.

PR: I had a tourist brochure with a map on it that showed the location of the library which said open from 6 until 8 PM. Fine! It wasn't far from the Motel. I had inquired. They had computers the public could use.. I had time to fix dinner and dry my wet things beforehand. There was no rush to leave, I thought. By the time I did, it was a few minutes before 6 and plenty dark. I put on my reflective vest for the first time, turned my rear flasher light on, set my front light to pulsate and away I went. My bicycle was lit up like a Christmas tree freed from its usual load.

When I arrived the posted sign on the library door said open from 4 to 7 PM. I had only an hour to write. Hmm, maybe not a bad thing I thought It would force me to be brief. Only the volunteer librarian was there when I arrived. Ev wanted to know what I was doing. We had a wonderful conversation. I told her where to look on the web for my blog. She did just that reading about my ride from the December posting in Valemount. In the meantime, Karsten came in to use one of the two computers and sat down. He overheard me telling Ev about my air mattress woes. He said he had an old foam mattress I could have and would go get it. I thanked him and said I could sure use it. I wasn't quite sure how but it couldn't hurt I thought. It did help as an underlayment.

Karsten returned with the foam mattress after using the computer I was on and left. Another woman that came in to use a second computer had also left but not before we had a lively conversation about forests and bark beetle infestations. How she knew so much I wasn't certain. It takes three weeks of 40 below to kill them and that wasn't happening now with the climate warming she said. The BC government was also not doing any controlled burns as they had done before to save money.

Ev was clearly moved by what she read and our conversation.. She took $25.00 from the library till as I got ready to leave, wrote an IOU for the money and handed it to me. Use it to pay for your expenses she said. She insisted, take it, please it makes me feel good to help, don't say any more I'll start crying.

I accepted. It would help me. I understood to accept was to honor a gift given selflessly.

What's your name I asked. "Ev," she said, "that's enough. I work at a local truck stop. It opens at 6 AM. Come over and I'll have a big breakfast for you."

That got me up early, I didn't have to fix anything. I could get an early start.

A conversation with the motel manager the night before while he was changing oil had persuaded me to leave my studded tires on. "They never get the forecast right, around here," he said. Sure enough, a 60 percent chance of snow flurries in the forecast turned into the real thing when I walked over to the truck stop for breakfast. It tapered off later but not before leaving the roads and shoulders slick and snow covered. Help from unexpected places in a time of need.

"What will you have," she asked after I sat down. A mound of pancakes, two eggs, bacon, hot chocolate and orange juice arrived in no time. Grease, energy for the road was what I needed. I was stuffed. A far cry and welcome change from the usual oatmeal and granola fare. She said "no, you don't owe me anything," when I got up to leave. "I'll pray for you," she said.

On my way out of town I stopped again at the truck stop where she worked. She saw me but didn't come out. I understood. I left a small candy cane from the motel on the window sill. Adieu!

The Way to Peace, the Way of Love, PR

On the road from Blue River, BC

Peace Rider: Hey Joe, only 25 minutes and counting on the Blue River screen

Friend (Joe): Don't be so darn verbose this time.

PR Want to hear a funny tale.

F Go!

PR 34 miles from Valemount and camp at Chappell turn out for "sleds."

Full moon over mountain after digging two feet of snow for tent. Coyote yapping at the moon. Beautiful! Very tired, normal, right?

F And?

PR Eat, no problem, a little heat from stove even though wood wet. Kindling from Bill Russell saved my bacon.

F Yes, yes let's hear what happened.

PR Finally get to blow up mattress, Then bang! What the??? Bang! Baffles between four tubes now fail. Spend night like a frog on a log perched on fat half. Sleep fitfully but sleep.

Universe has a sense of humor. Failure on coldest night of year but warm in bag.

F Where are you now?

PR Blue River Sandman Motel. Leave AM. Time up in cyberspace.

On the Road from Valemount, British Columbia 12/1/09

Peace Rider: Hey Joe you out there somewhere? Joe's my imaginary friend.

Friend (Joe): Yeah, I'm never far away. So you made it to Valemount in spite of the snow?

PR I did, but it was challenging. How about those young people and their teachers I spoke to in Jasper, aren't they amazing! Some of them have been to Kenya's Masai, Mara to help build a school.. One of those young students, Teresa, got on here bike along with my host Art Jackson and we rode a short way together as I headed out of town. I was especially moved to stand with them in front of a monument honoring Canadian war dead from WWI, WWII and the Korean War.

F Aren't you a veteran

PR I was an Air Force pilot during the Viet Nam war. You know being with them gave me hope that one day maybe there will be no reason to fight evil with more evil, killing each other over our differences.

F You're a dreamer!

PR Perhaps, but when I see young people doing good things I'm greatly encouraged. Overcoming our differences and working together we can create a different future and world. This is true power, power with that comes from unity and understanding not power over. That's what this ride is all about bringing people together to end the insanity.

F Weren't you standing on a street corner protesting against starting the Iraq war? Where did that get you?

PR Well, nowhere. Me and a lot of like minded souls stood in the cold, peacefully protesting and were ignored. The war began as you well know.

F What makes you think it will be different this time?

PR Because it is urgent we do so. Climate change affects all of us. We dare not continue down the same path of misunderstanding, doing our own thing, ignoring what's happening under our very noses. It's time to throw off our dysfunctional past and embrace Oneness. It's the only way we can heal and restore the planet while there's still time.

More people than ever before embrace this concept. If more come to realize we are One, violence becomes less likely. It comes with the understanding we are only harming ourselves individually and collectively. We see that in young soldiers coming home from the battle field, torn apart inside by killing others. At the soul level there is understanding that it's harm done to the self creating internal conflict.

F I don't get it.

PR At the spiritual level, the level of energetics we are all connected one to another. It's a part of our internal programming, to use computer lingo. Buddhists might call it our Buddha nature, Others the kingdom of God within, or inner light.

It's like we are waves on the ocean who have seen ourselves as separate from the ocean but are now awakening to a new understanding. looking deeper. We are a part of the ocean in all its vastness, our minds limited, not able to completely understand fully. Nothing created exists apart from it. That is Oneness. Separation is an illusion.

Native Americans have a good grasp of this seeing themselves as part of the natural world, not separate from it. It is why we need still wild places to reconnect people in cities with their roots in creation, for its value to the human spirit.

F Aren't we way off the subject of your bike ride?

PR Not really, a peace rider's message, mine at least, is the same as that of many spiritual teachers like Jesus of old or Peace Pilgrim in the modern era. The Way of Peace is the Way of love. My ride is modeled after what she did, walk for peace with a simple message, overcome evil with good, hatred with love and falsehood with truth.

Love is misunderstood. We have ignored it believing power over is greater than power with. That is changing, many now are waking up to a new perspective. We are one humanity, not separated from creation and least of all from the "ocean," that which is greater than self known by many names

F Okay, but how does that have anything to do with climate change.

PR Ever heard of tough Love?

F Isn't that what parents use all the time for the greater good of their children even though they may not appreciate it at the time?

PR Yeah, you know none of the great social changes have come without a struggle and resistance from those in positions of power. Mahatma Ghandi used peaceful civil disobedience to end British rule in India. Martin Luther KIng, in my country, used the same approach to end the era of segregation and discrimination in the South. It was a struggle and there was violence by those opposed to change. But it works.

F But why does it work?

PR Love understands we are all connected to one another and the "ocean" at the soul level. Violence only leads to more of the same. What you give to another comes back to the self. It is why only good and love can, in the end, overcome evil and hatred.

F I still don't get the connection with climate change.

PR To create a new earth it may take "tough love." Non-violent civil disobedience in word and action may be necessary when peaceful protests are ignored. This is always a last resort keeping in mind potential consequences.

It's already beginning to happen. If we are to peacefully end the fossil fuel burning era it is like-minded souls coming together that will make it happen. All thought is creative and a collective consciousness of many people wanting to create a new earth is very powerful.

It won't be political leaders that save us. It will be ordinary citizens coming together that will save some of our leaders from themselves. That's why I ride, to bring people together, to ride for a new earth, to end the insanity.

F You are a dreamer?

PR So be it but what is a dreamer but one who hopes for a better future. We can end the mess we've made but it's urgent we come together and act decisively very soon if we are to reverse current trends.

There are not decades remaining to avoid the worst consequences of climate change. We'll 'have to see if government words are matched by appropriate measures to reduce global emission of contaminates or if it's just business as usual.

F You haven't given up hope then.

PR No, there is a purpose behind what's happening now even if out of sight of mainstream media. There is always more going on than meets the eye when you look deeper.

F Can't you lighten up a bit. This is heavy stuff.

PR Let's do.

F The forecast called for snow while you were en route between Jasper and Valemount. How did that turn out?

PR I got hammered. I paid for two nights in the Park and just made it outside the entrance the day I left after a late start. The shoulders were clear and icy. Luckily, I had changed to studded tires after a light early morning snow in Jasper made the roads slick. Art had said It was mostly downhill from town and it was, which really helped.

By the time I got my tent set up it was dark. I was looking for dry wood under a three quarter moon. I had a heck of time finding any. I went out twice more looking for drier stuff before I had fire in my stove and heat.

The next day it began to snow lightly and was pretty good going on cleared shoulders. I filled my water jug from the headwaters of the Fraser River.

Over night six inches or snow of new snow fell on top of a foot and a half base and continued coming down. This was my first cold camp. I couldn't find any dry wood.

In the morning I boogied or tried with snow still falling. The shoulders weren't plowed clear yet. It was slow going on new snow. I couldn't go fast without risking a fall even if it was mostly down hill.

I called Beth and Bill Russell from the Terry Fox rest area, friends of people I met in Jasper. They graciously invited me to stay at their place where I'm at at this writing. Bill, "as it happened," saw me pull into the Shell station in Valemount. He led me to their cozy and welcoming home not far down the road.

On top of that they had thoughtfully built a warm fire in their garage so I could dry all my stuff.

Their Chatahoola Leopard dog, Trooper, greeted me. I loved his friendly and good natured disposition.

New friends, loads in common and many kindnesses were extended. I will miss them.

I arrived just ahead of a big dump of new snow in Valemount. I leave later today after several events this morning. The roads should be clear or clearing. All is now snow covered but the sun is out. A great day to be alive! PR

On the Road from Hinton and Jasper Park, Alberta

Friday morning, 11/20/09 I rolled out of Edson, Alberta heading west on Highway 16, next stop Hinton a bit shy of 50 miles down the road.

My new friend and generous host Don Laird saw me off with a photo op and a last wave from me heading down 6th Avenue on my way out of town.

Not only was Don a very generous host but also a wise counselor drawing upon his own organizing experience. The momentum Ride for the Planet is beginning to gain through media exposure will be in no small measure thanks to Don. Before leaving town he arranged for an interview with Victoria Carnagham, an editor with the local paper, the Edson Leader. Further down the road he made other contacts, with the Hinton Parklander, the local paper and other contacts into Jasper Park, the next stop on my way west.

On four lane divided Highway 16 west to Hinton shoulder width was generous. I remained safely well to the right, on my bicycle of course. No left leaning tendencies on this road unlike the often skinny to non existant shoulders on Highway 32 and 748 into Edson.

And still only patchy snow with temperatures only slightly less below to above freezing. Pedaling out of town in sandals with heavy socks of all things.

Camped for the night about 36 miles west at the highest point on the Yellowhead Highway, Obed Summit. I was flying along so fast I missed the summit elevation. It was one of my easier days with gentle grades followed by long downhill runs and no headwind.

Joe caught up with me after that.

Friend (Joe): I see you got a little snow last night.

Peace Rider: Yeah, when I broke camp there was just a trace on the ground. You know I darned near camped in the middle of the track, not really a road into the forest where I pulled off the road. You couldn't even see it from the highway because of a steep embankment. It looked little used but I was wrong about that. Fortunately, I found a small clearing amidst the tall pines and aspen trees more to my liking. I pitched my tent there. Boy, was I glad I did, no sooner was my tent up than a pickup truck drives out on this "road" then down onto the Highway. Later that day en route to Hinton I saw hunters emerge from the woods and figured out what was going on.

Back to your question about snow. Hinton received more snow, maybe two inches and it was slick and sloppy when I made it into town. It was beginning to melt by the time I pulled into the IGA food store to replenish my larder about mid-day.

My destination was the Entrance Ranch about 10 minutes away by car and north of the Athabasca River but a good hour away for me over two pretty steep grades.

F. Why stop at Entrance Ranch?

PR As you may recall Connie Friend, whom I had met in Tok, Alaska suggested I might want to stop here on my way south. She had visited the Ranch many times for healing by Jimmy O'Chiese, an Ojibway healer living on the ranch. She was quite impressed with all the folks at the ranch and suggested I stop by. I took her advice. I am staying at the Ranch now although to use this computer for an update I came into Hinton and the local library.

F So did you meet up with Jimmy?

PR Not yet. Just off the main road and going into the ranch I met Rocky Notnes. He's one of the Ranch owners and runs the place. He was on his way into town. I had left messages that I was coming. My arrival was not unexpected. He told me Jimmy was in Edmonton helping develop a school curriculum for Ojibway children. He expected him back any time but that was over a week ago.

F So what are you going to do if you can't see Jimmy.

PR Well, it has happened that the person I intended to see was not the person I really needed to see. In this case I was able to get better acquainted with Rocky. Rocky is originally from Norway. He cares deeply about stewardship of the Earth and has been very active in a variety of environmental issues and groups over the years.

When I met him he was off to a meeting about trying to save a remnant population of mountain or woodland caribou. He is also a person grounded spiritually, influenced greatly by native American spirituality and its ties to the earth. He was very supportive of what I am trying to do in creating a Ride for the Planet Day and a big help.

I went to Jasper Park with Rocky and met his friend Art Jackson who has a guiding business there.

F Where to next?

PR Jasper Park. You know the really amazing thing?

F What?

PR My friend Don Laird had arranged for me to stay with Art in Jasper through other contacts. That's where I'm at now. I will leave here 11/27 for Tete Jaune Cache then hang a left southbound for Kamaloops.

I left for Jasper Park 11/24 with goodbye and thanks to Rocky for his generosity in hosting me at the Ranch. It was late in the day. I made it to within about a mile of the Park entrance and camped. The next day was rough, Chinook headwinds blowing in from the west. Most of the way to Jasper was hard cranking. There were several time that I was brought to a near standstill by gusts getting past Jasper Lake. The latter dries up in winter and the wind with dust blowing blowing over the road. Head down and crank away.

F But you made it?

PR Yeah, and I took the long way around into the town besides. I was in before dark, rubber legs and all and called Art. A little over 30 miles for the day. First time I have had to crouch over the handle bars to lower my profile and wind resistance.

F What do you think of Jasper Park?

PR Jasper is another world treasure. Elk and Big Horn Rams on the road near the town site on my way in, not overdeveloped like so many places. Great scenic beauty with mountains, lakes and rivers in stunning array. Not much snow yet at lower elevations and unusually warm temperatures.

The route west from here is one of the lowest if not the lowest pass through the Rocky Mtn. and mostly downhill into BC. Just by "coincidence."

Thanks to Don Laird I'm also getting more media exposure. Talked to two student groups here today and have other contacts ahead. It has been truly amazing to see how this is unfolding. I'm meeting the people who can help and are jazzed about what I'm trying to do in creating an International Ride for the Planet Day.

In the coming year, at least, the focus will be on climate change and the importance of bringing global emissions of CO2 down to safe limits for the planet (350ppm scientists tell us). I have mentioned this before.

It is going very well. Got to run. Happy Gobble, Gobble day to all!

A Little Further Down The Road

Peace Rider: Hey, Joe you out there? Where are you when I need you! I've got a story to tell.

Friend: Well, I'm still here what's up?

PR I headed out of Ft. St John on the morning of 11/14 from the home of Sandra Weibe and David Dyck, my generous Warm Showers Hosts, well rested and ready to hit the road.

F So no problems en route to Dawson Creek I assume?

PR No problems, a couple of killer grades beyond Taylor climbing out of the Peace River Valley and again south of the Kiskatinaw River crossing. I arrived in Dawson Creek the second day in late morning and headed for the Greyhound Bus station. I had a box of food forwarded to me via Greyhound from Watson Lake, with a note to hold for my arrival in Dawson Creek. No problem right?

F Right, so what happened?

PR When I got to the station it was closed on Sundays between ll:00 AM and 3:30 PM. Rats, I thought, not going to get out of town until late if at all. I had food to buy and time to kill which I did. I returned to the station a little before reopening. Tim the agent arrived a few minutes early to open up. Great, I'll get my box and hit the road. It didn't turn out that way. Herein is a tale.

F Let's hear it.

PR I handed Tim the receipt for my box of food only to be told Don Ross had picked up his box. You've got to be kidding, I said. He wasn't kidding. No phone number was on the box so they called the Don Ross listed in the phone book and he came and got my box. Now what are the chances of that?

I was not at all happy with this turn of events as you might imagine and said so. But I didn't get angry or any of those other possible emotions that can rise to the surface.. Well, Tim said he'd call Don and try to recover my wayward parcel of food. He did that and Skye-Ann his daughter answered the phone. Don was out so she took the message. Nothing for me to do but wait. Forget about leaving Dawson Creek this day. It was starting to get dark by this time.

Sometime later Don calls back and talks to Tim. He has my box and said he'd bring it in. Wonderful! But his place was a 45 minute drive north of town. More waiting. In the meantime I'm thinking I need a place to stay for the night. I'll ask Don if I can camp out in his yard for the night. Don arrived with my box and I talked to him. Sure he says you can stay at my place you don't need to camp out. Great!

F So why didn't he just return the box when he discovered it wasn't his.

PR It turns out as Don explained that his dad's name is Dan and he drives a truck up and down the Alaska Highway for Lynden Transport. So Don didn't catch the name difference and thought it was a box his dad had sent him. He called his dad but he was out of town driving so didn't catch up with him until a few days before I showed up in Dawson Creek. He thought then to wait until his dad came through town and they could maybe figure it out together.

F. But then you showed up and the puzzle was solved, right?

PR Right, I got my box, and had a place to stay for the night. Don dropped me at the Greyhound Bus station on his way to work early the next morning. He also made some valuable suggestion for routes into the States.

But you know there is a reason for everything even though it may not be readily apparent. I didn't know in the midst of things why I was being delayed in Dawson Creek through some very unusual circumstances. That evening it started to snow which continued through the night. By morning the roads were covered in 8 to 10 inches of new snow, the shoulders unplowed.

If I had left town when I had planned I would have been caught out on the road in a snow storm. Being delayed saved me from that. I decided again to take the bus south and get to where I could safely cycle again which put me into Whitecourt late that day.

F So you're in Edson, eh?

PR Yeah, and that's an interesting story in itself. I had just turned onto Highway 32 to Edson from Whitecourt when up ahead I see a Halliburton facility on my right. And I thought about Dick Cheney, ex CEO of Halliburton and how lacking in understanding he was in believing the end justifies the means. The means and end are one. It is why Jesus said turn the other cheek. He understood that violence only leads to more of the same because at a fundamental level we are all connected. He was also mistaken in believing that power over is greater than power with. All things including ourselves are connected. This is not well appreciated.

F. So then what?

PR No sooner had those thought come and gone than just off to the side of the Halliburton gate a car pulls over and a man gets out waiting for me to cycle up. Don Laird introduces himself and wants to know what I'm up to. I explain and it doesn't escape me that in front of Dick Cheney's former employer, Halliburton, I'm telling Don that my motivation for this ride is the Way of Peace which is the Way of Love. Don said he planned to make a coast to coast cycling trip next summer and peppered me with questions.

At the end of it Don says look him up when I get to Edson if I need a place to stay. The timing worked out. I called Don and I'm now at his place in Edson after a day and a half on the road from Whitecourt. Lots of good food, generous hospitality and just as important conversation about ways of building momentum for creating a Ride for the Planet day in the spring.

F So it sounds like you are pretty pleased with all these developments. Where to next?

PR You bet, one of the joys of this trip is meeting people and making new friends. Next stop is Exchange Ranch just outside Hinton and after that Jasper Park.

I am stopping at Exchange Range to meet several people there suggested by Connie Friend whom I met in Tok, Alaska. It's the reason I planned my route to pass by Hinton.

More on that down the road. Ciao!

On the Road from Fort Saint John: more conversation

11/14/09 Ft. St. John, BC, AM

Peace Rider: Hey Joe, fancy meeting up with you again. You dogg'in my heels, keeping track of my whereabouts?

Friend: Yeah, something like that, want to see you get down the Highway safely. It's late to be making like a snow bunny.

PR I know. There have been times I've asked myself if I can really pull this off especially at the end of the day when it's all I can do to put one foot in front of the other. But then I remind myself it's just one day at a time, sometimes just one hill at a time. I'll keep on crank'in awhile yet.

F. So you took the bus from Watson Lake after all?

PR Boy am I glad I did that as it turned out. The Highway between Watson Lake and Ft. Nelson was not well plowed off.

It was an "eye opener," literally, a red eye special via Greyhound. The passing hills and valleys were bathed in the soft light of a full moon under crystal clear sky - when I cracked an eyelid to look.

The bus pulled a freight trailer behind it, a different wrinkle. The driver dropped me 20 miles south of Ft. Nelson and John Brucker met me at the Highway at 4 AM. Both very much appreciated.

It was great to reconnect again after an eight years lapse. I also met Vi for Violet for the first time. Both are widowers. She and her husband lived for many years on a trap line near the mouth of the Liard and Ft. Nelson Rivers.

John raises about 100 head of cattle on roughly 2000 acres with help from his son. But as only he can colorfully put it, it's not a money making proposition. His son works in the oil patch to make a go of it. Likes to hunt and is off to Iran, maybe about now to hunt sheep.

As I mentioned before we met more than 40 years ago when they were living in a cabin at the mouth of the South Nahanni R. I stopped there in a Folbot on my first long boating adventure in the North.

F So when did you leave Ft. Nelson?

PR I left John and Vi's place mid-day on Thursday 11/5/09. With me was a weeks worth of brownies made from scratch, my very favorite. Vi baked them up for me just before I left. They were worth waiting for, a nice treat. I ran out just short of Ft. Saint John where I'm at now. I also had about 10 days worth of food to make the roughly 260 mile trip.

F You've been in Ft. Saint John for some time?

PR No, I just arrived yesterday, after a week on the road. I'm staying with another Warm Showers host family who graciously opened their door for me. I'm the first cyclist they've hosted. Sandra and Dave just moved here in June but have also done long distance cycling . She's in residency training at the local hospital and Dave is a stay at home dad taking care of their two children. Another is on the way.

F How was your week on the road from Ft. Nelson?

PR In some ways this was my toughest stretch yet with many up and downs to negotiate. A 30 mile day was a good one for me. The terrain gradually rises from Ft. Nelson then falls away again to the Peace R. plateau but with few flat stretches in between. You don't think much about it in a car but it's huge on a bicycle. The distant mountains also receded to a memory.

The Sikanni Chief grade south of the river was especially challenging. I walked a portion but I'm not at all certain it's any easier, just different. Crank 40 revs, stop, rest, four breaths, crank 40, stop, rest etc. until on top. Over 40 stops on this one not including the on foot portion. One in the Yukon was close to this long and steep as well. No one stopped to offer me a Granola bar this time.

There was also a lot more truck traffic on the road, logging truck and trucks servicing the oil patch gas field developments common along this stretch of highway.

Road conditions were not too bad however. I was three days on studded tires then switched to touring tires with the Highway dry and snow free. Shoulders were patchy ice covered to dry.

I didn't see much wildlife on this stretch but what I did see was different than further north, four whitetailed deer in different places and two cow elk. Many tracks of caribou, a few moose and a couple of wolves along the road but nothing standing therein.

F Anything else you have to report?

PR Yeah, sometimes it's the little things that turn out to be those special grace filled moments. Etched in time and memory but not fully appreciated or savored except in reflection.

F. Tell me about it.

PR Water in a non-solid state had become a problem so I was stopping during the day where I could to fill my gallon jug before the light faded away and I made camp.

A couple of days out of Ft. St. John I stopped at the Wonowon gas station, motel and grocery for water. I usually try to find a place to lean my bike against rather than laying it over. In this case there was a huge backhoe in front with its bucket on the ground that made for a perfect rest while I went inside. I noticed a black cat resting on its haunches in front of the bucket as I approached. It scurried off as I got closer. I didn't think much more about it. A fleeting thought came. My grandmother would have said don't let that black cat cross your path.

Inside with water in hand I paused before going outside again when one of the men seated nearby said it looks like your bicycle has been invaded by cats. Say what?

There in a rare unposable moment were three black cats all sitting atop my bicycle. Two were kittens, perhaps half grown, one straddling the handle bars and one on the frame with mom crouched on my seat. I shooed them away. But you know, if I'd had the presence of mind I'd have paused to savor the specialness of that happening. It was the highlight of my week on the road as I look back.

Then there was the red backed vole that scurried across the snow from its hole headed my way as I stood beside my bike for a roadside snack break, changed it's mind when it saw the "incredible hulk" looming, reversed course and galloped back to dive in its hole again.

How many moments do we miss in life that are really special when we're too preoccupied with other concerns and not fully living in the moment? It was a good reminder for me to savor the time at hand as it comes. It's often the small things that make life worthwhile.

F What next for you?

PR I leave this morning for Dawson Creek then on to Grand Prairie and Hinton. I certainly have enjoyed my time with Sandra Weibe and David Dyck, young Greta and Ruben. The rest was welcome and needed, their kindness and gracious hospitality much appreciated.

Ate a proxima vez!

From Watson Lake - More Conversation

10/31/09 Watson Lake Update

Wow! The snow is falling heavy here this AM but it's not as windy. My host family is away caribou hunting. This is the last day of the season.

I found a snow shovel but I'm considering I may need to get down the road a little faster and ahead of full blown winter so may take the bus at least to Ft. Nelson and see how it is from there.

11/1/09 Watson Lake

Snow stopped and even a little sunshine this afternoon. My hosts are away getting swine flu shots. Decided I will take the bus to Ft. Nelson after all and spent a few days with my friend John Brucker. I leave tomorrow evening.

When I first met him and his young family they were living in a cabin at the mouth of the South Nahanni R. I wanted to see, if possible, this "Dangerous River," that R. M. Patterson described and I had read about. I chose a route beginning near Ft. Nelson that would at least take me by the mouth of the South Nahanni R. on the way to the Mackenzie. At that time there was no road connecting the AK Highway with Ft. Simpson that passes near the mouth of the South Nahanni R.

I ended up staying with them a few days. As it turned out he helped me and several other river travelers I met there find a river boat we could use that would get us up the South Nahanni to Virginia Falls.

This was my first BIG river adventure in the north by kayak, a Folbot as it was called. We made it but walked the last eight miles to the Falls. The river was still running high from breakup. The whitewater at Hell's Gate was impressive and intimidating. We elected to walk from there.

Later the Bruckers moved from the Nahanni to Ft. Nelson. I've visited them several times since. His wife Marge has passed. He lives alone now but one of his sons lives nearby.

Friend You know you we were going to have a conversation about the boat that shows up in your blog and your bike gear.

Peace Rider Let's do it, I have some time. Usually when I hit town I'm really tired and need to rest. Then I need to round up more food and sometimes fuel for my alcohol stove which doesn't leave a lot of spare time to just kick back.

PR How about bicycle gear first.

F Okay!

PR My bike is nothing special, a 24 speed Giant Mountain bike with disc brakes. In Homer I got a good deal on a used B.O.B (trailer) with a rear shock absorber from Cycle Logistics. The B.O.B comes with a waterproof carrying bag which is big enough for food, tent, collapsible stove and fuel.

On top of that I carry lighter weight gear like sleeping bag and winter coat in another waterproof bag. In all between 60 and 70 pounds in the B.O.B with more winter clothing in side panniers hanging from a rear bike rack. On top of that, In a day pack behind the seat I carry miscellaneous gear plus two quart water bottles in insulate sleeves filled with hot water, actually boiled in the AM for the days run.

Even getting up at 5:30 AM it takes me three hours to get ready, packed up and ready to go when there is enough daylight to cycle. I can cook on the wood stove but to boil enough water I usually have to use the alcohol stove for the final temperature rise.

I have a pair of Schwalbe Marathon XR touring tires and a pair of studded tires with extra tubes.

F You've talked about your tipi tent before, what's that like?

PR My tent is great. It is a four man, floor less tipi tent made by Kifaru, the smallest tipi tent they make. But it's big enough for me and all my gear including bicycle and B.O.B. I added a small ground cloth for laying my sleeping bag and air mattress on. The best feature is a fireproof ring near the top for a stovepipe from a cleverly designed collapsible stainless steel stove. I added a frost liner and a collapsible hand saw for the stove. Tent and stove are in the 10 to 15 pound range.

I wouldn't have attempted a trip this late in the year without it. I've cold camped enough to know it can be rough.

What else? Winter clothing and sleeping bag of course but one of my best investments was an air mattress with a built in hand pump. Pat and Kathy suggested I get one. It's Swiss made, I think, but rolls into a small relatively light weight bundle that is really comfortable when your body needs a good rest. No moisture gets inside with the built in hand pump. An A + for this one although one of the tubes has now partially separated under continuous use.

A Black Diamond head lamp with two intensities and battery pack is another valuable addition. I usually wake up in the dark and go to bed in the dark. To save battery power I also use a candle.

F How about your boat?

PR Do you want the long or the short spiel?

F Let's try for the shorter version. I know this is one of your passions.

PR Okay, I'll try. The photo you see is of me leaving the Homer boat harbor in early June in Wave Dancer, a homemade dory I made several years before over several winters. My friends Tom Irons and Jean Aspen saw me off and took the photo.

F So what's it made of.

PR The hull is 1/4," 5 ply marine grade plywood covered with epoxy coated fiberglass inside and out. It's a few inches shy of 20 feet.

I had built several river dories before and knew that in general it's a very seaworthy design.

I found this Ed Davis designed "Camp Cruising Surf Dory" in a WoodenBoat magazine article. I bought a set of plans from him. I modified the design further at his suggestion adding a narrow deck around the gunwales and a motor well. The latter was my idea after I figured out a way to sleep aboard on a collapsible wooden bench suspended between the three seats.

Sorry, this may be more than you care to hear about but there may be some boat aficionados out there who may be interested.

Over the open part of the boat I made a tent canopy supported by three rigid aluminum tent frames, bent to shape, that come apart, held together by bungee cords similar to a backpacking tent. The bottom of the tent canopy fastens with snaps to a raised coaming along the deck edge.

F Enough already, so where did you go?

PR I was headed for Seward around the outer coast of the Kenai Peninsula. It was my first long solo trip in Wave Dancer. I was a bit apprehensive about it all. But it was also a kind of vision quest for me. What is it I'm supposed to do with he rest of my life kind of thing?

Peace Rider was already in the back of my mind.

F You obviously made it, so how was it?

PR You know it turned out to be one of the best trips I've ever taken all all levels, spectacular scenery, seals, sea otters, whales, Dall porpoise and sea birds of many kinds. Thrown in were some really challenging sea conditions rounding the three outer capes en route. I was weathered in in three different places waiting for sea and wind conditions to moderate.

I also discovered that once you round the bottom end of the Peninsula and head northeast again you leave the big boat fishing traffic out of Homer behind. With gas prices high it gets expensive the further you go.

My boat may be slow, at 4 1/2 knots with a 5 hp, 4 stroke Honda but it's also very economical plus I was able to sail when wind conditions were right, roughly 1/3 of the time as it turned out.

From there past Gore Point and much closer to Seward the coast is wild and little visited. Much of it is in protected land status. It was great!

F Weren't you afraid being out there by yourself?

PR You know the dory design is just incredible. It may be a small open boat but it's amazingly seaworthy being double ended and round bottomed. Even under the roughest conditions when I was getting bashed about I never felt in danger of capsize.

My experience of the boat was much the same as designer Ed Davis who sailed his "Tropic Bird" in the Bahamas.

You know I also felt cared for on this journey as well. Looking back now I can see this was also happening at a younger age when I was less appreciative and aware.

F What did you mean when you said it was the best trip on all levels?

PR I'll share one experience I've shared with some others that was really special. I was heading east just out of Thunder Bay after being weathered in there for several days. This part of the coast is exposed to the open ocean and of heart rending beauty, shear rock walls rising out of the sea a thousand feet and more, I judged. Cliffs that sea birds just love. The sea had flattened and puffins and others paddled out of the way as I motored slowly by these bird rich cliffs.

Up ahead, high, I noticed two donut ring contrails separated by some distance. Hmm, holding patterns of some sort, at least 29,000 feet I knew from prior experience. Odd, it was a long way from Anchorage air traffic, still... It was a bit of a puzzle.

When I looked up again the two patterns had merged edge to edge forming a figure eight laying on its side. Curious. More hmm. The it came to me, the sign for infinity, that which is everlasting and eternal, a reflection again of that which is unnameable and indescribable, the Great Mystery.

Then as I continued my path and the symbol merged. It seemed to me then and now that it was an affirmation of our essential Oneness with that which is greater than self and known by many names. Wow, words fail at such moments!

When I awoke the next day in Crater Lake Cove it was to a gorgeous crystal clear and dead calm morning. A seal head popped into view and disappeared. I was unfastening my tent when I looked up and saw contrails from a military tanker. Behind it were four fighters closing in to hook up for refueling. This was the likely source of the donut hole contrails the day before. Tankers often set up a circular holding pattern somewhere expected to wait for their "customers."

Yet that which is eternal and everlasting had used what we consider power in human terms, but impermanent, to show where true and everlasting power lies, so it seemed to me.

It wasn't the only event of this kind but as I said before it's there if we have eyes to see and look deeper than form.

PR This is already overlong so let's bring this to a close and give readers a break.

F Sure!

PR Before I go though, I wanted to give a special thanks to Barry and Susan Drury (see the photo at the start of this post) in Watson Lake for hosting me, a place of peace and rest in the midst of a literal storm.

Until next time.

A Continuing Conversation - Part 3

Friend I passed you in a snow storm heading into Watson Lake yesterday. Are you crazy?

Peace Rider What can I say. Early winter finally caught up with me. Somewhere along the way it was bound to happen.

It was clouding over late the day before. A front passed in the night, wind and snow coming with it. I had two choices, stay in camp and possibly be snow bound or hit the road while I still could. Another consideration, my food supply was dwindling. In the AM the road was still passable so I hit the road with about 30 miles to go. I switched back to studded tires. The road was mostly snow free and good going on faster touring tires to this point.

F So where are you hanging out in Watson Lake?

PR My Whitehorse friends Ken and Wendy helped me find a "Warm Showers" family in Watson Lake that host cyclists like myself. I'm the oldest and probably latest to show up. I called Susan and Barry Drury from Teslin and left a message that I was coming. I did not want to show up unexpectedly. I was profoundly grateful to have a place to rest.

You know I feel really cared for and looked after on this journey.

F How so?

PR I was just a few kilometers down the road from camp when who should pass and stop but Susan and Barry. They were out caribou hunting and introduced themselves as my host family. They had gotten my message. They were going to be out a few more hours and said they would catch up with me later and give me a ride into Watson Lake. Just short of the junction with the Cassiar Highway Susan caught up with me again. I was still 13 miles from town.

Barry had stayed with another friend to continue hunting. At Susan's suggestion I gave her my heaviest gear which freed me to pedal the remaining distance less encumbered. More snow was accumulating on the road too. It was a BIG help. The last two pitches between the Liard R. crossing to Watson Lake were really long, steep and draining. As usual, plenty tired by the time I topped the hill and hit WL.

F You know there aren't many folks of your vintage on a winter camping trip by bicycle.

PR Vintage, true, but you know our bodies are amazing and will do what we ask if we take care of them. But I also realize to make it I need to take periodic breaks especially after a week on the road with 30 and 40 mile days.

F So it took you a week to make it from Whitehorse to Watson Lake?

PR Yeah, I got a late start from Whitehorse when I left on Thursday with a photo op at the Klondike River boat thanks to Ken and Wendy. I made it about eight miles out of town that day and had another day when I ran into rain and mixed rain and snow when I literally got stopped in my tracks.

F How so?

PR There's more to the leaving Whitehorse story.

F. Okay?

PR You remember I mentioned in my last blog of meeting John Harding at Goodies Gas stop on the outskirts of Whitehorse?

F Vaguely.

PR Well, he had been kind enough to call Beez Kneez Hostel for me from there to find out if they were open for business. They were and I needed a place to stay. As it turned out there was a place for me at the Whitehorse Oblate Center with Father Veyrat my old French priest friend from Ross River. I didn't know it until I stopped there to see him.

F Then what?

PR As I was setting up camp about a mile from the turnoff to Skagway who should drive down the unmarked road just as I was setting up camp but John Harding. It turns out he was driving south on the Highway when he spotted what looked like a briefcase. He turned around only to find it was a pillow. He saw this road and decided to explore where it went. Most roads he told me are private drives. He said he had looked for me at the Hostel but I wasn't there and was left wondering what happened to me.

This was a kindness repaid in a special way.

F You were going to tell me about getting stopped.

PR Yeah, I was a couple of days out of Whitehorse when it started to rain then mixed rain and snow. I still had touring tires on and was trying to push my bike up a steep hill through slush. It balled up on the front disc brakes then froze. The front wheel literally wouldn't turn and it was also slipping. I took the hint. I was wet. It was time to stop. I got the wheel unstuck and reluctantly headed back down to look for a camp site.

At the bottom I found a snow free place barely big enough for my tent to fit in between the spruce trees. I walked downhill on the north side of the road to find water plus dry firewood. I was in the tent starting to get dried out early in the afternoon. That day I only made 12 miles. A heated tent is a life saver under these conditions.

F How was the road after that?

PR I switched over to studded tires before breaking camp the next day. I can do this inside my tent which is a huge plus.

I made it up and over the icy grade where I was stopped the day before. But in a few miles I had a mostly snow free road again. I didn't stop to switch tires but did so the day after with the road mostly clear.

F How was this leg compared to the one into Whitehorse?

PR Definitely more demanding, more hills to get up and over with conditions turning more wintry. Luckily I was able to do most of it on touring tires. There was also more snow on the ground after I crossed the Continental Divide.

The kindness of strangers is a reoccurring theme, welcome and very gratifying. Kamil Skurka from Anchorage stopped. He was headed to Cleveland to live closer to his daughter. Wanted to know what I was doing and took photos. He said he had paid off his debts in two years and was going south with money in the pocket and a waiting job with good pay.

Two hunters, Wolf and Terry, on their way back home at Marsh Lake stopped when I was on a long grade with gifts of juice, granola bars and conversation. They had gotten a caribou from the Little Rancheria herd, saw me on the way down.

You know the road is so much different now than when I first drove down it on a motorcycle a long time ago. I still had a full head of hair and it was red in those days. The road was still mostly unpaved then, not as straight or even of grade and a dust bowl. Some of the charm and adventure of it all are gone.

But one thing hasn't changed much over the years and that's the wild beauty of the country flanking the road. It's still a stunningly beautiful setting to immerse oneself in day after day.

Just as I was breaking camp one day about half way down Teslin Lake a skein of tundra swans flew over, back lit, just as the sun broke the horizon, calling. Special moments. Getting out of the country ahead of the snow. I was a bit envious.

I heard swans calling from another camp by Swan Lake still unfrozen. I think it was the same day I also saw three trumpeter swans still on a lake. They are the last to leave ahead of freeze up, late in coming this year. Their young cygnets mature late.

The same day I'm pedalling up a not so steep grade when a white van pulls off on the shoulder ahead of me and stops. Then it moves on up to the top of the hill. Considerate I thought. A man gets out carrying a bottle of water. When I get closer he yells can you use a drink of water. Sure, I say. He says he never passes up a cyclist without stopping to offer something. He said he tries to make a long distance cycling tour every year somewhere.

He gave me a couple of web sites that will be helpful in route planning in the States, Adventure Cycling being one of them and Guy On a Bike the other. It was John Harris from Anchorage, a 27 year retired AK State Trooper as it turned out. He was on his way to Whistler, BC for a singing engagement of some sort then to Bellingham, WA.

But here's the remarkable part. He knew and was also friends of Pat and Kathy from freespirtwear in Homer and found so helpful with my trip planning. He'd been in Pat's Anchorage bike shop and got to know them before Pat sold his business. I also learned that Pat had an illness that compelled him to sell. I was sad to hear that.

Here I am on the road a long way from anywhere, meeting up with a stranger only to find we have mutual friends and learn of something I was not aware of before. So it has been since I assumed the mantle of Peace Rider.

There is a harmony to events that seems to come when your life aligns with divine intention.

F So what are your plans now?

PR It looks like I will end up staying put for at least another day until the snow stops and the road gets plowed off. I'm also in the market for a light weight snow shovel. Got to git.