In Whitehorse

Arrived here (Whitehorse) 10/19 after getting a fourth grade education (pushed bike up four grades) very tired. Before I say more wanted to thank all of you who are praying for me and concerned about my welfare on the road. I am very grateful for that support and remain healthy and in good spirits.

The other thank you goes to Ed Debevec and Jackie for their continued support and help in setting up the blog, thank yous I did not extend at the outset as intended. And thanks to Ken Madsen for the photo you see to the left.

It is very satisfying at this point knowing that I am doing what I am supposed to be doing whatever the shape the final results may take. It also occurred to me that it is also my privilege to share when asked the Way of Peace which is the way of Love as the motivational force behind this ride. The way of Love in this sense is for the highest good of the other which may at time require tough love. The other continued welfare of all of life on the planet which will be seriously threatened if emissions of CO2 gases are checked then reversed. The hour glass is already approaching empty and we have yet to act.

In that sense it is very similar to what Peace Pilgrim shared on her journeys. This honors for me the source from which the action regarding climate change arose.

A Continuing Conversation

Friend. So how was it from Destruction Bay to Whitehorse.

Peace Rider: You know Ì'm blessed to be doing this but this stretch of highway was the roughest yet weather wise. At the end of the day past D Bay my legs were jello, 20 kt headwinds for about 10 miles south, grades were gentle but pumping all the way. After that the wind gradually subsided as I turned the corner and crossed Slims R. by Sheep Mountain.

To paraphrase Red Green, I discovered the handy bikers secret hideaway in a headwind - culverts, dry this time of year, a four footer for one snack break and a six footer for another.

After the first, Trudy, a native woman from Burwash Landing stopped to asked if I was okay. She had seen me on the road earlier.

And you know when I was entering Whitehorse days later a red car pulls in front of me and stops. It was Trudy again. She was glad to see I had made it and I her. I had taken an alternate, short cut route into town at the suggestion of John Harding whom I had met at Goodies Gas and Laundromat on the outskirts of town. Reinforces for me once again there are no coincidences in life.

I had stuck up a conversation with John while he waited for his laundry to get done and I made phone calls.

Lived on a mining claim out of Whitehorse and had another near Dawson. Had lived in a tent through forty below and knew how to get by. One of those people you meet and just like and connect with.

Oh, yeah besides culverts, found a Canadian dollar in the gravel just past Soldiers Summit where US Army Engineers and workers met at the end of eight months of construction of the AK Highway during WWII. New road wider and faster but has lost something of the charm. Passed up a fine looking set of needle nose pliers. Road treasures.

F You had any snow yet?

PR Boy, did I. A front moved through during the night after I made camp south of Kluane Lake the same day out of D Bay. The weather had been clear as a bell, temps still above freezing but not much. By Christmas Creek a few miles down the road from camp it was snowing lightly and sticking.

Seven flocks of tundra swans in vee formation pasted overhead as I was walking my load up the hill. Ducks were also on the lam southbound. Oh, for a set of wings.

Several thousand duck were ashore or rafted up on the south end of Kluane Lake when I passed and stopped for water the day before. They were sheltered, out of the wind as was I, finally. Part of this lot southbound.

F How much snow did you have?

PR Well, it tapered off by afternoon but there was two to three inches of loose snow on the shoulders and hard packed on the main road from passing traffic. Ended up changing to studded tires in a snow storm out of the wind by a lake, north side of road.

Should have changed sooner. Touring tires slick as grease under these conditions.

F How far did you get that day?

PR Turned out after Christmas Creek the terrain gently falls away to Haines Junction, something you don`t pay much attention to in a car. So I was a bit surprised to be on the outskirts of Haines Junction by quitting time.

F Aren`t bears still out and about this time of year?

PR I thought they`d be getting sleepy, ready to den up by now but not so. Temps still mild.

Just before making camp after leaving D Bay a local dump truck driver stops down the road from me and backs up to tell me he had just seen a brown bear in the tree line up ahead. Bears do their thing and keep on ambling looking for food. I wasn`t on this one`s menu and never saw it but looked and kept on cranking down the road before camping.

The kindness of strangers has been a reoccurring theme and joy of this ride. Having Peace Rider, Burn Fat Not Oil definitely attracts attention as it was meant to.

F I thought you were thinking about taking the ferry from Haines?

PR Yeah, I had thought about it. Probably easier in the long run. But I have friends in Whitehorse and in Ft. Nelson that I wanted to see. Road conditions were manageable and snow was beginning to melt off the road so I turned left instead of right at the Junction.

Heard swans in the distance from camp, a few duck flew by as well. I headed out of town after making calls and buying groceries.

A few miles out of Haines J., Glen Hurlburt pulls up in front of me and stops his dual wheel diesel powered truck. Another cycler, has a local wood cutting business it turns out. Handed me $20.00 for the cause. Surprises on the road.

Further on Norbert and his partner stop in front of me and give me candy and an apple. Welcome relief from my boring fare.

On this trip I eat to live not live to eat, a fat rich diet. Cari F`s king salmon strips keep me going during a day's ride. They didn`t quite make it to their spawning grounds this far south but their essence gives me energy to make the same journey.

F Anything else happen of note?

PR Inevitably I crossed paths with someone who took exception to what I was doing.

Stopped at the Takahini rest stop for a break. An older man and wife, retired Alaskans heading to Parker, AZ, snowbirds. He wore a ball cap with a Southern Air transport logo on the front. Asked him about it, had jarred a distant memory from my military days. It is the airline of the CIA. War is good for business and good for the CIA. He said they are running a fleet of 747's into Afghanistan. His son works for SA.

Told him what I was doing. He actually got quite angry over that and some observations I made about the war. Went on a rant. Walked away and said I was all wet! A good opportunity to be fully present and practice non-violent communication skills. I'm working on it. Likely not the first dissenting voice I'll hear, part of the journey. Wished him a nice trip.

F How in the world did you end up at the Oblate Center in Whitehorse. Huh?

PR Therein is a tale but will make it brief. Many years earlier on other northern adventures by boat or kayak in the Yukon I had met Father Pierre Veyrat at Ross River. He was a French Oblate priest who had come to the Yukon as a young man and ran the Catholic mission there for 40 years. We shared a love of the outdoors and building river boats. We exchanged Christmas cards over the years and I visited him off and on over the years.

At 86, he is retired and moved to the Oblate retirement center in Whitehorse about a year and a half ago. On an earlier summer trip to Skagway this year I had stopped to see him. I did so now on a bike and found a welcome refuge and place to rest before heading on down the road.

I`ve got to git. But before I do wanted to mention I connected with Ken Madsen and family here. I had flown them into the Arctic Refuge when I still had a flying business. They are avid cyclers and made a long cycling trip last year to promote bird conservation.

Malcom their son had recently biked to Ottowa on a similar ride for the planet type of trip to stress the need for the Canadian government to address CO2 emissions. We're on the same wavelength.

F Anything else?

PR Yes, I especially wanted to thank all of you who are supporting my ride with your prayers and concern for my welfare. It helps and is deeply appreciated. I remain healthy and getting toughed up in the right places - where backside meets saddle.

And a big thank you to my good friends Ed and Jackie Debevec for their support and Ed`s expertise in setting up the blog for this ride.

Gracias a todos!

On the road from Destruction Bay, Yukon Terr.

10/14/09 km 1725 to about km 1685 Destruction Bay, YT (about 24 miles)

Arrived here mid-afternoon. A rest, shower and laundry in about that order beckoned so checked in to the Talbot Arms Motel.

Getting toughened up from the constant riding but the last two day gave me a real lashing, literally. South wind blowing 15 to 20. Didn't get out of lowest gears all day. From about Burwash Creek on to D Bay grades gentle but into a headwind. Give this aging body rest. But it's hard in a good way. Not unexpected for a long trip of this sort still whipped today. Head down, plow into the wind.

More head down plowing today 10/15, strong wind again from south, why they call it Destruction Bay I was told. Finish this off before leaving my comfy digs.

10/12/09 Mile 1223 to km 1860 just past Beaver Creek

Kindness of strangers struck me today. Just as I was rolling up to the highway from camp a camper truck stops. Man walks toward me with a plastic bag. Is he looking for a bush to get behind, an errant thought. No, he had a bag of goodies for me, a banana, two Matsu apples, candy and cashews, yum yum. It was Eric Hollerback from ANC (Anchorage). Said he biked in Asia and wanted to repay kindness shown him on the road. Magnificent. Ferrying truck south then seven months in Asia, Nepal?

Birds again calling during the night, headed south, passing in AM also. Thought these were white-fronted geese. Later in day got a closer look and they were tundra swans. Bike fell over when I stopped to look. Balance tricky with a load I have discovered.

Setting up camp on hard ground just off north side of road a Mountie passed heading in direction of Beaver Creek but doesn't stop. Sign at pullout says no overnight camping with red slash through camper symbol. Nothing about bicycles I reason. I was again done in at this point needed to stop. A sigh of relief.

Later the same Mountie, presumably, returns with family. Is he going to evict me I'm thinking. I ask. No, he was just checking on me. Wanted to know if I was doing okay, did I need anything? Rest I replied. Welcome to Canada!

Km 1860 to km 1788, past Koidern but short of Pine Valley (about 43 miles)

At km 1812, a date in history to remember, I'm feeling the need to take a rest break when a man in a green tee shirt yells at me from a cabin north side of road. "Want a cup of tea." Sure and into his driveway I went and met Donald, aka Don Lajoie a French Canadian Yukoner. Lives simply by himself, needed to talk more than me, no problem. Three large picture windows one facing road. Saw me passing. One sophisticated cabin, solar powered, satellite TV and phone. Retired from Shakwak Project, AK Highway construction. Gave up car he said because he can borrow from nearby outfitter and friend anytime. Worked at Talbot Motel in D Bay for the summer, made enough, never had to touch retirement money. Live simply to simply live.

Everything has consequences he said, people need to wake up to that. Other more colorful language followed. A joy to make his acquaintance. Loves flying, my background, we hit it off.

A tea and pee break, hot water in bottles thanks to another Don, then "hit the road Jack."

This day did not get much education. Only to first grade. Mind games. Each hill I have to walk begins another school day. A passing grade on the other side. Don't seem to get it right keep repeating grades.

Stars out in awesome array after dark. No light pollution here. Who who, who who from owl.

10/13/09 km 1788 to 1725 Sakiw Creek north of Burwash Landing.

Foggy in AM but clear later in day, temps in 40's.

At km 1777, 5 trumpeter swans in a pond. Also saw first bear tracks on road, a blacky. Not fresh but should be sleepy and hanging around den, not out and about. Worrisome.

More of an education today passed the 5th, a struggle.

Km 1756 stopped to rest on third or fourth grade, not far south of Donjek R. bridge. Love these wide expansive flood plains taken at a very slow speed.

Past a barely noticed scat pile walking then another where I stopped a few feet beyond. Then yapping starts nearby, north of road. I howl, more like a croak from not speaking, more yapping, howl again - silence. Wolves no friend of coyotes. Cars passing, missing natures wonders.

Eight grouse, unidentified fly land up ahead km 1745. So goes my day.

Sawkiw Creek south side pullout looks like camp. Stop in road to crane neck to see sign on north side, bike falls over. Great, just what I needed at end of day. No traffic in sight. Ground hard. Have to use steel spike to make pilot holes. Tent set over less then foot high spruce trees. Nice, didn't have to kill anything to fit in this place. Why don't we do more to accommodate nature than the other way around?

Technology separates us from nature, labels separate us from one another and distractions of all sorts separate us from the moment, the only place where the sacred is found.

10/14/09 Sawkiw Creek km 1725 to 1685 D Bay. More from next stop. Where?

October 11 Update from the Road

10/09/09 Left Tok Mile 1414 in midafternoon got to Mile 1400 just past Tetlin Junction. A no water camp. Really beat. A low point on the trial so far. A female Marsh Hawk flew by headed down Road before got to the Tok R. Bridge, then a cross fox came to the south side of the road. Went back when he saw me. Workers on new bridge across Tanana. Should have asked for water there.

10/10/09 Mile 1400 to Mile 1359 Good day, but had to walk some hills. Ran out of drinking water early but five miles down road found some by a culvert. Stopped and boiled up two quarts for rest of day. Mile 1373 stopped for a break, actually bike fell over when I stopped then took a break. Between traffic, family of five coyotes crossed road. Not bothered by me. Camped just past Northway Junction, a no water camp but stopped before at Tanana River and filled gallon jug so not out. Mostly gray day, windy in AM.

10/11/09 Mile 1359 to Mile 1323 Yearling moose a few miles down road from camp. Thought it might run into road but stayed on south side. Was an oncoming car. Lots of hills, walked at least half dozen grades in part or all. After 1329 hit top of hill and last three miles to Border City Lodge gratis. Camped two miles down road from BCL. Old cabin site. Thrill of day at camp. Skein of 150 or so whitefronted geese past nearly overhead calling. Going my way. Heard more all night passing overhead when I would awaken. Warm. Back tracked to lodge to use computer and call others.

Into Canada today 10/12

A Conversation

Friend (F) So what's the deal here, an early winter bike ride down the Alaska Highway going where and why? Is this an ego trip for you or what?

Peace Rider (PR) Not at all, although I have to be careful it doesn't become that. It's the last thing I expected to be doing this winter. But before I get into the "why of it" I have a few people I need to thank publicly for making it possible. My wife was not overjoyed at my going but has always come through in the end running errands, and buying and preparing food. New friends Pat Erwin and Kathy Sarns' owners of Free Spirit Wear.com in Homer made invaluable gear
suggestions. They are experienced long distance cyclists, which I am not. I am also the proud owner of a colorful buff and blue wind jacket from their shop. These happen to be the school colors of Punahoe High School on Oahu, Hawaii where I went for some of grade school. I added Peace Rider and Burn Fat Not Oil the back borrowed from another Fairbanks friend, as a fitting slogan for this ride, don't you think? Jason Tinsley, another Fairbanks friend, introduced me to Kifaru tipi tents. With a collapsible stove it takes the cold out of winter camping.

But hey this trip is not about me its about bringing people together to end the insanity and the kind of hell on earth we have created. There are many social inequities but climate change is the most urgent needing all our focused attention if we are to avoid its worst effects. Worldwide CO 2 emissions need to fall below 350 ppm, a safe level scientists tell us. National governments dither and this is unacceptable.

F So what motivated you to ride?

PR It was an inspiration, that is an in spirit prompting, the end result of a long spiritual journey with many twists and turns. I ride to honor the inspiration and the One who made it possible. This is the outward action from an inner journey. It's also necessary if we are to pull ourselves back from the brink. There are not decades remaining to make these changes.

F You mean God asked you to do it?

PR If you're implying that I'm a bit addled in the head and hearing voices you're wide of the mark. Really it's a lot more subtle than that, it is more like a thought that comes to mind then acted upon and later affirmed by circumstances and people met who can help. Those people I already mentioned, for example. I am discovering that as my life aligns more nearly with divine intention there is a harmony that arises along with a sense of inner peace.

But lets not use the God word here, it's overworked. To borrow an Ekhart Tolle quote the "the finger pointing at the moon is not the moon. The paradox here is that when you use a word with its accompanying thought to describe what we are talking about it implies there are two, the thinker and the object of thought. This creates the illusion of separation. When you use the God word or other descriptive words it cannot be that it's something else.

What we are talking about is formless, unnameable, and indescribable from our finite perspective but not unknowable. We and everything else in the universe is an expression in form of that which is formless. All of life then is a reflection of the divine and sacred. Think of it as the energy holding everything together including you and me. We are an inherent part of Universal or Source energy. We are One with it in the same sense that Jesus meant when he said I and the Father are One. Separation is the illusion and cause of all the dysfunction and insanity in our world.

F So okay but I really don't get this God stuff. If I can't see it I'm not inclined to believe it.

PR Welcome to the crowd. Your a nature lover and enjoy all the sights and sounds and beauty that's all around. Right?

F Sure.

PR Love of nature was my path to the sacred. Think of the simple beauty of the blue Forget-Me-Not flower, the AK state flower. But look deeper than the outward form. The flower form is a reflection of the that which is formless. Here especially love and beauty intertwine and point to things divine. Love is commonly understood as the essence of Universal energy. There is always more going on than meets the eye.

This is the perception shift we all need to make to throw off the yoke of our dysfunctional past and embrace Oneness. Humanity is at a crossroads and the choice of the future we wish to create is up to us. I ride with the hope that there are enough aware and like minded people out there, tired of the insanity and are ready and willing to come together under a common banner to alter course while there is still time.

F This is pretty deep stuff, did you just make this up or what?

PR None of this is new information. Others have said much the same in far more detail than we have talked about here. Check out Ekhart Tolle's writing. He's a great spiritual teacher.

F Hmm! But hey, what's this New Earth Movement thing? A movement takes a lot of people right, so how many people are in this movement.

PR I chose the name after Tolle's most recent book, A New Earth, Awakening to Your Life's Purpose. A lot of people have read his books which complements other recent works. This word choice will resonate with those who are familiar with his writing and spiritual teaching.

Fundamentally it's a shift of perspective away from the dysfunctional illusion of separation to embrace Oneness or Unity.

F This sounds like a religious movement to me with all this God talk stuff.

PR No, its not affiliated with any religious group but it has spiritual underpinnings that are necessary for any movement of this type to be successful. Nor is it a secular environmental movement lacking recognition of a sacred hand, so to speak, behind and guiding it.

F To have a movement you've got to have a cast of thousands, right? How many are in your so called Movement?

PR You're looking at him.

F You've got to be kidding. You remind me of Don Quixote tilting at windmills, except your horse is called Giant and it's a bicycle.

PR You can make fun all you like but all movements start with someone with an idea. Someone had to go first, so why not me. I couldn't just sit around and talk about it. So I'm on a bicycle headed south. I hope others will be inspired to join me along the way. The intention is to arrive in Washington, DC at a date as yet to be set, but probably in late April to urge Congress to get serious with climate change legislation. It's a little early to be date setting. I need to get a better feel for hows long it will take me to make my way south to the "lower 48."

F . This is pretty sketchy.

PR Yeah, I know, many details remain to be worked out. This all came together for me towards the end of the summer. Now I'm the only Peace Rider for the Planet, USA. With the internet it's my hope this will "go viral" and other cyclists will join me or plan there own routes to a rendevous in DC. Just imagine the spectacle and impact of one or more cyclists from each of the 50 states converging on the nations capital insisting on tough climate change legislation. It would also be way cool and colorful if we were all wearing FreeSpiritWear jackets or jerseys with Peace Rider and Burn Fat Not Oil on the back. And just imagine if all this went global on Ride for the Planet day.

This may not be enough as other movements have found. Peaceful civil disobedience may be necessary as a last resort to persuade governments and businesses to change. In the end it won't be government that saves us, it will be grassroots efforts like this that will.

F So I'm still not clear on some important details. Can anyone join in a Ride for the Planet day.

PR Yes, as long as the means of transportation is not fossil fuel powered.

F Tell, me more.

PR Okay, my hope is that following my example there will be many other Peace Riders who get on their bikes from all parts of the country and head for a rendezvous with me and many others in DC sometime in late April 2010 as I mentioned. Of course, not everyone will be able to go the entire distance. There could be relay teams. You may come by any modality of transportation that's not fossil fuel power. Many won't be able to come to DC and should plan their own events for that day as happened in 2007 with Bill McKibben's Step It Up Campaign. Maybe a demonstration at a coal fired power plant is needed, maybe a ride to local or national seat of government. Imagination is key.

If it went global there would be events in other countries insisting that their national governments adopt tough climate change legislation

Burn Fat Not Oil says it all. The goal is to bring CO2 emissions below 350 ppm which scientists say is a safe level. Check out 350.org. for more information.

This should be fun and not burdensome.

F If I drive my car to one of these events is that okay?

PR If it's the only way you can come to make your presence felt yes but car pool or use public transportation if possible. Buy meaningful carbon offsets if you must use a conventional means of
transportation.

F So would you still ride if noone came to your "parade."

PR Sure, can you think of a better way for me to spend my time? I'll be in great shape, been outdoors most of the time, not to mentioned all the new friends I am making and will make along the way. It's a great adventure. Don't be afraid to take risks with your life when opportunity knocks. Security is another grand illusion.

F Tell me more about the sail boat on your web site and the gear you have with you?

PR Let's save that for another conversation. I still have to make a few miles down the road today and it's well into the afternoon.

F Okay, Hasta Entonces (until then).

Reporting from Tok

Travel Log.

Didn't make it out of Delta J until mid-afternoon but still made it to camp just south of the Black Soldiers Memorial bridge over the Gertsle R. at Mile 1393. About 43 miles in all, and mostly flat. A quarter mile walk to the river for water. That's my biggest necessity, two quarts of warm boiled water in my day pack. Long stretches without water but late in day made it to a camp just the south side of the bridge. The most pleasant surprise of the day was Heather Koponen stopping to say hello on her way back from Dot Lake. She is a traveling nurse and saw me peddling away. Her wagon had tell tale bumper stickers which look familiar until she exited the car.

In early AM, like 0300 I heard birds calling overhead, not Canada geese, most likely whitefronts although unconfirmed. No visible road carnage heading south. Walked four steep grades in PM. Maybe I will get in shape and can sail over them. They are a welcome break from flat ass syndrome I am experiencing. At one point I saw written in tar the word awesome, it made my day and brought a smile. Camped at Mile 1397 just south of the Robertson R. bridge on an access road. A mile hike down to the river for water with some bushwhacking but seeing back lit cotton grass on the river flats highlighted by the low angle sun was worth the scramble. Rain ended in early AM and had sun by afternoon. Heard more high flying geese, above clouds that rolled in. Front moved through with wind overnight. In AM was overcast but no rain. Closer to Tok the grade flattened and I arrived in early afternoon, Flock of distant swans and a vee of whitefronts heading south seen just after the last of the hills into Tok about mile 1325.

Stopped by Tetlin Refuge office to see if Tony Booth, Refuge Manager was in. Knew him from former work. He was away but met Connie Friend, knows Sean, and knew Bill Fuller and visits Nancy. She's a Refuge Info. Tech.dealing with native issues. I was looking for a computer to update my blog and asked whether the local library had one. They did and I worked there until 1700 and closing.

Connie was kind enough to offer a place to stay if I didn't make it out of town. I didn't. It was great to regroup and visit with her at her home Picked up a care package of food mailed to myself care of the local PO.

If anyone finds a beloved and cuddly box turtle in the area near her house she is anxious to have her back, named Ashi for ancestor. Escaped in July from her cage abetted by Connie's cat, maybe. Don't think of these animals as affectionate but this one was with its own personality she said.

Early PM, still in Tok trying to finish this and head out of town. Light rain and colder. Did not sleep well last night, a little too warm perhaps. Mailed left over food down the Highway for a later rendezvous. Carrying about 10 days worth of groceries. Load close to 70 pounds the BOB limit. Take all of that I imagine.

A joy to make new friends along the way but that is how my summer has gone. The people I need to help me in the journey show up when most needed. You can't give selflessly without also receiving. That's the way things work in my experience.

Peace Rider Checks In

Just got a phone call from Don. He's doing well. A little tired, but then he is pulling quite the load. The first day, he got a little past Harding Lake and found a nice campsite near an old abandoned log cabin. Not too much to report other than one white snowshoe hare. A dry day, a nice camp spot, a good start to the journey.

The second day he got a little past Shaw Creek, about 16 miles from Big Delta. He related an experience of seeing a rough grouse that had just gotten hit on the highway. It was still warm so he took it with him and had his first roadkill meal that night. He says it was quite tasty. There was rain at night and he's come to appreciate his tent. It's made by Kifaru and you can check them out at kifaru.net. He has the 4-person teepee with a collapsible stove. It's the perfect thing for those cold damp nights.

So far today he's seen 12 trumpeter swans. He hopes to get a few more miles down the road before settling in for the night. He plans to connect again once he gets to Tok and hopes to transmit a lengthy description in his own words. Hopefully he'll get that to us on Wednesday.

It All Begins...

Don (aka Peace Rider) is on his way. He pedaled out of Lulu's parking lot in Fairbanks, Alaska, around 8:45 this morning looking a bit apprehensive, but excited about the adventure that awaits. Why is he doing this? Well, that's best left for him to explain. I hope to get a missive from him soon that will talk about where he's going and what he hopes to accomplish along the way. I'll be posting that as soon as I get it. In the meantime, if you see this crazy man heading south along the Al-Can Highway, give him a smile and a wave and wish him well on his journey. Oh, and if you have an extra candy bar, I'm sure he'd appreciate that as well.